Aborted Visit to the Musée des Tissus in Lyon

On Saturday Alain and Eric kindly invited me a lift to Lyon so that I could visit the Musée des Tissus and the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. These museums may be internationally reknown for their exhibits but their ability to deal with an evacuation last Saturday was poorly lacking. A siren went about 30 minutes into my visit. It sounded much like a car siren coming from the adjacent street. It continued however for some time and I started to become concerned so I searched for a staff member in order to clarify the situation given the lack of announcement. A very flustered attendant approached telling me to follow him quickly and get out. On the way we located 2 other visitors to the museum. They did not seem to know how many people were in the museum nor if they had evacuated all of them. The main entrance was filling with smoke and there was one staff member who seemed to be starting to panic running back and forth. Panic is probably too strong a word but although he seemed to be senior he was really out of his depth with how to handle the situation. Fortunately by this time we were safely in the courtyard.

The firemen (rather cute and well built) arrived. Still the staff at the museum did not seem to know how to handle the situation and there was no clear line of command amongst them. Eventually one of them told us we could re-enter the museum complex. At this stage the firemen were in the main building but not the museum complex itself. This advice was withdrawn by another staff member and then over-ruled yet again. I re-entered the museum with a staff member and another visitor to continue our visit. Ten minutes or so later, we were approached and asked to leave again as they needed to wait for someone else to arrive to declare it safe to re-enter. Talk about chaotic and mismanaged. The staff really had no idea what they were doing. I asked for a reimboursement but this was denied and they said just come another day in spite of my explanations that I was in Lyon for only one day and was from Australia. I have left a comment on their Facebook page and they did promptly reply that they would get back to me on Tuesday. Unfortunately it means that I still have not seen the things I particularly wanted to view in the Musée des Tissus. Perhaps next year??

Basilique de Fourvière viewed from Place Bellecour

Grand Café des Négociants, Lyon

I only had a cold drink at the Grand Café des Négociants but I would have to say the service was very ordinary. I was almost on the point of leaving as it took a very long time to come and take my order in spite of very few clients. Although the setting was very pretty, I probably wouldn't bother returning there.

Théâtre des Célestins

These modern buildings are located in the area known as La Confluence. It is an area in Lyon which include the port for leisure boats and is being gradually redeveloped over a number of years. The shopping centre in the larger photo has a number of rather exclusive shops that were rather fun to look at. I resisted temptation and did not buy anything.

Sunday lunch with Eric and Alain in Romans

Being Fêtes des mères (Mothers' Day) in France it was not possible to find a restaurant that still had place for us. Eric, who is a cook extraordinaire, suggested that instead we purchase ingredients at the local market (at the end of our street) and have lunch at home. I eagerly agreed.

'Punk' seen at the markets with flowers for his mother. Love the shoulder bag made from an old record.

We purchased caillette (type of meatball with green vegetables) from the charcutier, baguette from the boulanger, cheese and ravioles du Dauphiné from the fromager, vegetables from the marchand de légumes, cake from the patisserie.

Caillette

Mushrooms

The cheese seller who asked me to photoshop his stomach

Ravioles ready for quick cooking

Sacher torte for Mother's Day 

Returning from the markets

Menu:

Salade de courgettes aux deux graines, yaourt de brebis (zuchinni salad with seeds and sheep's yoghurt)
Légumes printaniers sautés au wok et pois chiches (sautéed spring vegetables and chick peas) with ravioles
Sacher torte (black forest cake)

It was a sensational lunch with great company.

Some of Eric and Alain's collection of English royalty memorabilia

After lunch we watched the Queen's Diamond Jubilee pageant on the internet. It was soooo British.

Market Day and Haircut in Romans

Friday is one of the market days in Romans-sur-Isère. I would be exaggerating if I said the market is 30 metres from my front door. It is 25 metres. The market was predominantly fruit and vegetable, with some cheese, meat and spices. Unusual for a French market ,there was no bread on sale. The quality was very good but not as good as at Courbevoie. I was amazed at the very small number of people attending the market. Most stalls only had a handful of people at them. Without exception every stall-holder that I spoke to was extremely friendly. As has been my experience throughout my stay in Romans, people were quite happy to stop and chat.

Walking home

I knew that with 3 months holiday in France that I would need to get my hair done here. I asked my hosts, Eric and Alain, who they would recommend. Consequently I made an appointment to have my hair cut and coloured at Dessange, a rather well-known chain of hairdressers in France (with salons internationally). I figured that it was better to pay the extra and to be assured of a good result. Luckily they were able to fit me in around their commitment to sponsoring the Cannes Film Festival.  

The 1870 mansion was impressive if not intimidating. The staff were very friendly and welcoming. I was given the opportunity to hang up my bag in the cloak area or take it with me. I was assisted into what looked like a brand-new white wraparound gown that actually had enough material to properly wrap around. The staff were all dressed in crisp white uniforms without a hint of dye marking any of them. I don't know who does their laundry, but they are to be commended. Their aprons were clear disposable plastic which helped maintain the cleancut, professional appearance. 

Dessange Hairdresser's building in Romans

My colourist seated me and discussed with me the options for my colour. Let's be honest here - this is scary stuff when negotiating in a second language in which you are a long way from being fluent. The sample matched my hair so I felt reasonably confident. The stylist then came and spoke to me. I couldn't stop looking at her eyelashes. They were so thick and long. Could they be real? Trying not to be distracted, I grabbed my smartphone to show her the photos that I had the foresight to have taken last time I had my hair cut at home. Colouring was done in a separate room (cabinet). I found out that hairdressers do a two year basic course and then another two years to train as either a stylist or colourist. No wonder these young women knew their stuff. Everything looked like it was going well until I glanced at the lady next to me. Her hair was vibrant purple. It was supposed to be that way. Thankfully there were no mishaps with my colour.

Photo credit: www.salon-dessange.com

Photo credit: www.salon-dessange.com

The salon was light and airy, and very beautiful. I loved the placement of contemporary furniture alongside the traditional features of the building including parquetry and ornate paintwork and plasterwork. On top of that, the furniture was comfortable. Really comfortable. There was no skimping here. When it was time to have my hair washed the chair reclined back electronically and then massaged me. Rather luxurious. Instead of staring at a blank ceiling, I admired the beautiful paintwork on the 4 metre high ceilings. It is interesting to note that with the current exchange rate, I paid the same price as I do in Adelaide, Australia at my local suburban salon. I am very pleased with the results, both the colour and the cut and would have no hesitation in recommending Dessange in Romans-sur-Isère.

Great Hospitality and Eating Well in Romans-sur-Isère

Through the home exchange group, Homelink, I contacted Alain and Eric, who live in Romans-sur-Isère to see if they might be interested in an exchange with our house in Australia (Home Exchange - Benefits and Getting Started). Although they have no plans to travel to Australia they very generously offered for me to stay with them for 7-10 days in their amazing home. Hospitality is one of the options that some members of Homelink choose to offer in addition to home exchanges. It is great privilege and huge pleasure to be able to stay originally with C near Besançon and now Alain and Eric. I get all the comforts of home along with lots of practice in speaking French, great food, inside local knowledge about what to see and do as well as good fun company.

View from lounge towards the river

In just a little more than 2 hours the TGV whisked me from Gare de Lyon in Paris to Valence TGV railway station (10 km from Valence). My hosts kindly offered to collect me from the station although there is both a rail and bus link between the station and the town of Romans-sur-Isère.

Entrance to Eric and Alain's home and lounge room window above the doorway

Romans-sur-Isère is a medium sized town situated on the banks of the Isère river. In the old town where Eric and Alain live; the narrow streets, which are predominantly pedestrian only, are paved with stones and are flanked by large Renaissance homes. These are built around a church whose origins date back to the 9th century.

My ultra-comfortable bed which sits within the former gateway into the building

The flamboyant gothic stairway

Imagine my surprise when I found out that Eric and Alain live in the oldest home in Romans, Hôtel de Clérieu. The dungeon part was built in the 10th century to provide protection and also to provide a vantage point for surveillance. Additions and modifications have been added over the years. My bedroom window, which looks out on the internal courtyard, is opposite a flamboyant gothic staircase. Louis XII and Henri III have stayed here - and now humble me. This wonderful home shows Alain and Eric's interests and passions in life. It is full of books, magazines, music, original artworks and collections of items from their travels to countries such as England and Japan. 

Eclectic style with items from travels (Note the picture of the Queen)

I took on Eric's suggestion and lunched at Nature Gourmande. It has provided me with the culinary highlight of my trip so far when dining out. Qualitive, fresh food with an innovative, creative twist well executed. 

The husband and wife team, Pierre and Gwenaëlle, make a formidable team. He is the chef while she looks after front of house and is the pastry cook. The 20€ lunch menu provides great value although I chose to pay the 6€ supplement for the foie gras.

I decided to go all out so I started with an apéritif - kir cassis. This was accompanied with what to me seemed to be mini Croque Monsieur (does that make them Croques Messieurs?).  I had dés de volaille basquaise, roquette et balsamique followed by noisettes de veau poêlées, pommes de terre et mange-tout. As if this was not enough I had an assiette gourmande. 

I chose a glass of red from Bourgogne (Burgundy) which I thoroughly enjoyed. Each dish was beautifully presented to show off the ingredients and to invite you to partake. The flavours and textures didn't disappoint. I ate slowly to make the most of each bite. 

Dés de volaille basquaise, roquette et balsamique 

The veal (veau) was so tender that it cut effortlessly and melted in my mouth. The snow peas (mange-tout) were crisp providing contrast to the potato (pommes de terre).

Noisettes de veau poêlées, pommes de terre et mange-tout

The assiette gourmande was superb. Each morsel an absolute delight. My favourite though was the lemon curd on the small piece of cake/biscuit.

Assiette Gourmande

The combination of fresh, quality ingredients, extremely well cooked and presented along with excellent service make this restaurant a winning combination. If you are going to be visiting the Drome I strongly recommend you seek out Nature Gourmande. I am sure that you will be equally delighted.

Bonbons accompanied the coffee

Restaurant Nature Gourmande: 37 Place Jacquemart, 2610B0 Romans-sur-Isère