Dreams do come true - Cycling in Paris

People who know me, know that I don't go in for exercise apart from the occasional sprint from one shop to another.  This didn't stop me from finally deciding to try something that I had always wanted to do - cycle in Paris. Thousands, millions do it and think nothing of it. My lack of fitness plus fear for my life had kept me off a bike in Paris until last Sunday. If you are going to cycle in Paris and are nervous about doing it, I can highly recommend doing it on Sunday in August. As Aussie in France points out in her post Paris in August – where have all the people gone? Paris is relatively devoid of people at the moment.

Lack of people at Arc de Triomphe

My friend, Olivia, who has just moved to Paris from the Vaucluse was to be my guide and provided my briefing on rules for cycling in Paris. Not owning a bike is not a problem in Paris. Vélib stations with their racks of bikes are to be found even more frequently than metro stops. These bikes are available for hire by residents and visitors alike. You can register online for a day, week or year. Short-term rentals can also be done at the automated kiosks located at the stations. The process is very quick and easy and the rates very cheap. A one day registration is 1,70 euro. If you during this 24 hr period you take a bike out each time for a period of less than 30 minutes there is no additional fee payable.  The secret is to return the bike after 29 minutes to any of the 1800 Vélib stations.  A short 2 minute wait and you can take it or another one out again. Even if you exceed the 30 minutes the fees are very low.

Me and my Velib in the deserted Place de la Concorde

Of course being in France no helmet is needed so no dreaded helmet hair. I am reliably informed that Parisiennes ride in high heals with short dresses in the middle of the road. Not me, inelegantly in my cropped pants and Birkenstock-like sandals no-one would confuse me with being a Parisienne. Even less so when I stopped to take a photo and fell off the bike. Oh the embarrassment!!! A young couple kindly helped pick me and the bike back up and even gave me a wet towelette to clean myself.

Olivia had worked out our route. Seeing I had always wanted to ride in Paris then it had to be the rue Saint-Honoré past l'Elysée; Place Vendome, Place de la Concorde and along the rue de Rivoli and of course the Champs Elysée. Olivia was a wonderful guide keeping an eye out for me and finding routes that I could manage. I thought I would be puffed and exhausted - instead I was exhilarated and felt rejuvenated. The wine and dinner we had partway through our tour may have contributed to these feelings. Monday morning, the bruises and aches and pains started to appear. French friends recommended a homeopathic remedy, arnica granules and gel. I cannot speak highly enough of these. The gel provided instant relief for my knee that smashed into the bitumen with my full weight plus that of my bike. Monday night, I collapsed into my bed not to wake until 9.00am. Unfortunately there are only a limited number of Sundays in August but I am determined to try it again.  

For more information on hiring Vélib bikes: http://www.velib.paris.fr/ (French, English and Spanish)

The Louvre - Path of Beauty

I discovered this short video thanks to a contributor in Fodor's Forums. The women visits some of the most famous works in the Louvre totally alone. Her face reflects her emotional voyage as she connects with the works. When I visit the Louvre and other museums in France I am often overcome with emotion as I take in the beauty and the history of the works. I smile to myself as the tears well up. This video allows me to relive these feelings.

Path of Beauty from Florent Igla on Vimeo.

Celebrating Christmas in France

My love for La France is intrinsically linked with my passion for food. I have been extremely spoilt in staying with Valérie who is a generous and wonderful cook. In France the main meal at Christmas time is usually on Christmas Eve. Valérie's son Grego offered to prepare this meal. Having lost weight for a film role he had been dreaming about an extra special Christmas Eve dinner. He devised the dishes, bought the ingredients and then he and Valérie worked as a team to create the dishes.

We started with champagne, foie gras on toast, radishes, carrot, foie gras and fig macarons from Pierre Hermé. I was rather sceptical about the foie gras and fig macarons as I have only ever known macarons as a sweet rather than something savoury. They however worked very well. I even bought some for New Year's Eve.

For entrée it was aumônière: parcels of chevre, sundried tomatoes, and dried duck breast. They were fiddly to make but the outcome was a huge success. This was followed by lamb crusted with gingerbread accompanied by rice with truffles, a cheese platter, homemade Christmas biscuits and bûche de Noël.  

Aumonière

Carré d'agneau en croûte de pain d'épicé

Bûches de Noël

There were nine of us for lunch on Christmas Day. Christmas gifts were exchanged at different times throughout the lunch. I really like the way that this was done rather than the focus put on the gifts before the meal in Australia. Of course, this may just be the difference between different families rather than that between different countries. We again enjoyed foie gras and many other tempting nibbles with our champagne. Our main course were châpons (castrated chicken and turkey) with potatos cooked in the duck fat. Cheese and a chocolate bûche de Noël completed our meal. There was so much food that the young ones were sent off with large doggy bags that I am sure they are still eating.

Wine on window sill for cooling

Thank you Valérie, JeF and your families for the privilege of sharing these wonderful meals with you.

Belated Christmas greetings from Paris

Thank you to friends and family who have contacted us to wish us a merry Christmas. I have been very slack about updating my blog and also not individually responding to emails. I do apologise. Your kind thoughts and best wishes are nevertheless greatly appreciated.

Here are some miscellaneous photos of some of the wonderful times from Paris over the Christmas period.

Christmas Trees are everywhere. These are near Saint Sulpice, Saint Germain des Prés.

Somedays the weather is perfect, and everyone is out to enjoy it. 

Family time. 

Maybe not Christmassy, but at 110 metres tall, La Grande Arche is striking architecture at La Défense

Love looking in the windows at the fresh goods on offer.

The department stores have amazing window displays many of which are animated and are created by well-known designers. My photos just do not do justice to them.

 

Champs-Elysées and its markets and illuminations

For truly beautiful photos of Paris see Carina Okula's blog and website. She is an Australian expat living  just outside of Paris.

Christmas Drinks with Paris Rooftop Views

A quick Google search or checking your favourite Paris blogs reveals a number of bars, cafés, restaurants and terraces that have wonderful rooftop views. I am not sure if it is a new trend but there are a couple of temporary 'popup' additions to existing terraces that are worth considering if you are fortunate enough to be visiting Paris over Christmas and New Year.

Angelina's, a rue de Rivoli institution famous for its hot chocolate and Mont Blanc patisserie, has taken over one end of the 8th floor terrace at Galeries Lafayette. It is free to go up to the terrace and enjoy the views of Paris. With heating provided in the café you can enjoy the view of Opera Garnier, Madeleine and through to the Eiffel Tower for a little longer. It still does get quite chilly. You do need to make a bit of a sprint if it is raining. I think from memory we paid about 7-8 €uros each for our hot chocolate. Not exactly cheap - but it is delicious and the view is stunning.

View towards Madeleine and Eiffel Tower

View back towards Sacre Coeur

Le Bar Etoilé à BHV: I was just planning on taking in the view from the restaurant lower down in BHV early one evening. I love reading signs. As soon as I saw the sign I was interested in spite of not knowing that it was a bar sponsored by Grey Goose vodka. Technically you are supposed to book ahead via their facebook page but we just turned up. You pay 10€ for your cocktail. They are vodka-based although a non-alcoholic one is available. The area is very exposed and not much seating.

Enjoying a cocktail (just for the photo of course)

Hôtel de Ville from BHV rooftop bar

Angelina's (12 November to 31 December 2012)

8th Floor Galeries Lafayette

40 bd Haussmann

PARIS 75009

11.00am to 6.00pm 

Le Bar Etoilé (12 November to 23 December 2012)

BHV

52, rue de Rivoli

PARIS 75001 

5.30pm to 7.45pm Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri and Satu

5.30pm to 8.45pm Wed

5.30pm to 7.15pm Sun

Outstanding Dinner in the Outskirts of Paris

I am very fortunate to have a wonderful local restaurant in La Garenne Colombes on the outskirts of Paris. Le Saint Joseph was recognised earlier this year for its excellence with an entry into the Michelin Guide. It is not hard to see why they have received this commendation.

It was my second visit, and once again the welcome was both warm and sincere. It is a very popular place, as evidenced by the need to book at least 3 days ahead. I was stunned that the helpful and charming lady in charge of front of house waitress remembered me from my last visit nearly 4 months ago. 

The 29€ three course dinner represents excellent value. We paid a supplement for some of our dishes. I was guided towards the snails with chorizo, mushrooms and red wine (cocotte escargots bourgogne, chorizo, champignons) which was served in a small cast-iron casserole dish. I have only ever had snails with garlic, parsley and butter before. As much as I like them that way - this was much better. The individual flavours were detectable with the rich flavour very warming on this cold, December evening. So enthused, I mopped up the last of the remnants of the sauce with the fresh, crusty bread.  The staff were so thoughtful that they even brought out a second dish for me to photograph when I thought I had lost the first photo. 

Cocotte escargots bourgogne, chorizo, champignons

My main course was lighter and more subtle in flavour but equally rewarding - scallops and prawns lightly flavoured with vanilla (noix St Jacques à la vanille).  The recommended riesling was the ideal accompaniment for this dish. The scallops were succulant and plump, perfectly cooked.

Noix St Jacques à la vanille

Dessert was equally rewarding. I can't recall the description on the menu but it was like a chocolate mousse served in a glass jar with biscuits. It was smooth, rich and very chocolatey. Not too sweet. The perfect finish to an outstanding meal.

The very personable chef, Denis Jublan, does an amazing job balancing the flavours in his dishes. The freshness and the quality of the ingredients are evident. He is ably supported by knowledgable, enthusiastic front of house staff. This is not a fancy restaurant where you leave feeling hungry. It is down to earth with the focus on providing quality food prepared with attention to detail and passion. It feels like you a sharing a very special meal surrounded by friends and locals who enjoy good food. I am looking forward to my next visit.

Monsieur Le Chef was kind enough to invite me visit the kitchen

Le Saint Joseph
100, boulevard de la République
La Garenne-Colombes 92250
Tel: 01.42.42.64.49.89

Returning to France and La Défense in Winter

I have been fortunate in being able to return to France for a further two months, having already spent three months here this year. This is my first trip to France in winter.

Travelling in business class in the Singapore Airlines A380 from Singapore to Paris was a special treat. The seat was a massive 86cm wide and was folded down to turn into a bed. No wonder I arrived in Paris refreshed and ready to explore.

La Défense is about a 20 minute walk from our accommodation chez Valérie. It is possible to take the bus or the train but I really needed some exercise and fresh air after the 22 hour flight from Adelaide. I hadn't though counted on it raining during the last 10 minutes across the open plaza.

La Défense is a business area north-west of Paris made up of many high rise buildings and of course the Grande Arche and the Quatre Temps and CNIT commercial centres. The shops are generally chain stores of reasonable standard. The Christmas decorations were particularly pretty within the CNIT atrium area.

As excited as I was about the commercial shopping centres my attention was quickly drawn to the Christmas market on the plaza in front of the gi-normous Grand Arche. In spite of starting out refreshed, I quickly wilted and could not be tempted by the vin chaud, tartiflette, fois gras, champagne, saucisson etc. Perhaps next time I should not have second helpings of Valérie's tomato tarte with gruyère, parmesan and comté cheese. 

Belleville and its Street Art

When visiting Belleville in Paris recently, Hidden Secrets of Belleville, I was really interested in the street art that was to be found everywhere.

Artwork by Némo (a Parisian stencil artist whose works are often characterised by the black outline of a man in a raincoat wearing a hat). More artworks on Flickr

Artist unknown

Jerôme Mesnager (friend of Némo) More art works on Flickr

Il faut se méfier des mots, Ben (1993) - Beware of Words

The trompe l'oeil above and the fresco below are on the same street corner in Belleville.

Mural of detective by Jean Le Gac. 

Created using mixture of paint and newspapers by Philippe Hérard  

Hidden Secrets of Belleville

You would think that with a name like Belleville, which translates into English as 'beautiful town', this would be one of the prettiest areas in Paris. For Parisians Belleville has a somewhat seedy reputation. Although it definitely has a certain amount of grittiness from its working class roots it also has a charm. Its charm is in its authenticity which is punctuated with numerous unexpected pockets of beauty and pleasant surprises. The contrast of these elements really accentuates the hidden beauty of the area. 

  

Belleville has not always been a part of Paris. It was originally an area with vineyards and farms. Today a few vines can still be seen in the area. In the eighteenth century there was a huge growth in cabarets and dance halls (guinguettes). Food and wine were exempt from taxes at this time so many bourgeois people travelled from Paris to let their hair down and have a good time. These days the area is home to people from a diverse range of ethnic backgrounds, including Asian, Arab and Jewish. It includes the second of Paris' Chinatown districts, the other being in the 13th arrondissement. With its relatively low rents it has also attracted many artists who have established studios in the area. Belleville has maintained its anti-establishment roots which are evidenced in the street art and slogans found in the area.

 

The Parc de Belleville offers panoramic views over Paris. To make the most of your visit to the garden and its views, try to schedule your visit for a clear day.  

If you are on an Edith Piaf pilgrimage then you will want to stop by the commemorative plaque at 72, rue de Belleville where legend has it she was born.

I had a sense of having previously visited the area. Many films have been shot in Belleville including Monsieur Ibrahim et les fleurs du Coran and Le Ballon Rouge (The Red Balloon). Both of these films I had seen and obviously their images had remained with me.

I was fortunate to discover Belleville with my wonderful guide Alain from 'Parisien d'un jour - Paris Greeter'. I previously did a tour of Le Sentier with him and which I recounted in my post Free Walking Tours with Parisian Volunteers. If you are planning on visiting Paris and want to do a walking tour I recommend registering online with 'Parisien d'un jour - Paris Greeter' as soon as you know your preferred dates and times, and at least a few weeks beforehand.

Parc de Belleville: 47, rue des Couronnes, PARIS 75020